Monday, 5 November 2018

L'Etat, C'est Moi! Aka Versailles


From sustainability, we swiftly move to extravagance. And who has ever done it better than the man nicknamed the Sun King? Louis the XIV of France was so over the top, he declared (although whether he actually did, or whether someone attributed it to him is unknown) 'L'etat, c'est moi'. Effectively, I am the State. Needless to say, his palace of Versailles is equally larger than life. 
Situated a short distance from Paris - like an hour or so - it's still better if you make it a two day trip at least. That's how huge the palace and the grounds are.

The beautifully landscaped gardens will definitely take an entire day to cover. There are all sorts of walks, groves and formal gardens with spectacular fountains to be seen. I wandered around the gardens on my first day there, and left the palace proper till the next day. One good thing to note is that the gardens are usually open even when the palace is shut. If you choose a hotel or place that's close by (I stayed at the Trianon Palace which is right next door), you can enjoy a lovely afternoon stroll in the palace grounds.


The gardens are exquisitely laid out. Shrubs are meticulously cut. Fountains are both astounding and grotesque. And the marble statuary is delicately carved. It must have cost Louis XIV a fortune to maintain. No wonder he and his successors bankrupted the country. 

This statue is a representation of (if I'm correct. My pictures have gotten hopelessly mixed up) Autumn, in one of the formal gardens.

Make it an early night if you're planning on seeing the palace the following day, so you can get to Versailles early. Should you choose to view the main palace first, the lines are horrendous. Both the ticket lines, as well as the entry ones. My advice would be  to go around to one of the Trianons. They are the smaller palaces, and they sell tickets for the main one as well. However, you will still have to stand in the line for entry. 
As you can see from this picture, while everything is beautifully laid out, it's all off limits. And yes, you can get pictures without people in them (this was taken in August, at the height of the summer hols, and at midday, but you can't see anyone. And no, it's not Photoshopped.) You will however, have to be patient. Avoid the Chinese tourists, unless you want to get whacked in the face by a selfie stick.

Don't forget to look up, as well as around you, for the ceilings of this palace are equally a work of art. Just look at the frescos and detailed imagery of this corner.

The king and queen's bedchambers are the most crowded rooms of all. You will get elbowed, and if you're unlucky, even pushed around a bit. If you're a true Mumbaikar, it's nothing you haven't dealt with on a Virar local. Hold your ground, as you would on the train, and you'll get to view the rooms, and get your pics too.

Eighty percent of Versailles visitors come for one thing - or should I say person? - Ms. Antoinette herself. Marie Antoinette, the last queen of the Bourbon dynasty, who lost her head - literally, sadly. This is the famous picture that depicts her with her three children. The empty cradle held a daughter who died before the painting was completed. The son who stands by it, died in childhood as well. The two who are next to her are the ones who saw the fall of the monarchy.

A true Marie Antoinette enthusiast will make sure to visit the Petit Trianon, her little pleasure palace in the grounds of Versailles. The rooms are lavishly, but simply, decorated. They are also full of sculptures, paintings and works of art either of her, or ordered by her.

Something not many people stop by is the Grand Trianon. When I visited, it was mostly empty. This was Louis XIV home away from home, where he could relax without court etiquette in the company of his mistress. Today, I am told, visiting heads of State often stay here. (If only Indian politicians looked good, I might have been able to fulfil a dream and stay at Versailles!) 

The rooms are all exquisite, and well worth a look. It's the reason why I say that you'll need a day to go over the palaces, and another for the grounds. With all the crowds, I just about managed to see all three palaces before visiting hours ended.

Fun Fact: In the gardens, there's a lovely ice cream stand. It's just the thing to shore you up after a long day of traipsing through gilded rooms and lavishly furnished hallways.

It was twenty-five euros to visit all three palaces when I was there. But don't quote me on this, as I'm not sure.

If you happen to stop by Paris, don't forget to take some time out to visit the home of the Sun King.

Till next time,

MumbaiGirl.













Thursday, 1 November 2018

Sustainability: To Do or Not To Do?


In case you've been hiding under a rock these last few months, everyone who is anyone is discussing the environment. Sustainability is the buzzword of the hour. People are switching to steel straws, cloth bags, and talking about recycling. Even the British Parliament had a go at BooHoo for daring to make dresses that cost five quid. (Approximately Rs 500, if you want to know the cost in Indian currency.) The MP's claimed that it encouraged the 'throwaway' culture.

Environmental concern is not a new thing. If you're an ancient comer to these shores, you'll remember the early nineties when 'Reuse, Reduce, Recycle' was the phrase being peddled about. People were banging on about PET bottles, talking about how aerosol sprays depleted the ozone layer, and offering numerous tips on how to be more friendly to Mother Nature. Anyone recall Captain Planet and the Planeteers? And what did that all come to? Who bothers about the ozone layer any more? Do you remember to switch off the main power to your telly and computer when they're not in use? And just how many cars are owned by each household these days?

The problem with environmentalism, is that businesses and people see this as a way to make money. It's no coincidence that 'organic' foodstuffs cost three times the price of normal ones. The clothes from the so-called 'sustainable' labels are either designer, or have a similar price tag. The advertisers of these claim that they cost less when you break it down to how often you use them. But the problem is that most people don't have that kind of money to shell out in the first instance. 

This is the reason why these futile attempts to save the planet never work. They are far too expensive for the average person. It's the reason why plastic bags are back in full force after the brief ban. And why plastic cups, plates and straws are once again in use. Sadly, if you want to really benefit the environment  it's better not to look to governments or advertisers or influencers for advise. They are all promoting things based on the large bottom line for themselves. 

So, what can you do to halt environmental destruction in its path? Well, apply some very (un) common sense. Never mind if you can't afford the 'sustainable' labels. A dress from H&M that you wear several times over the course of two years is helping the earth. It doesn't matter the label it comes from, if you're throwing it out after one season. So buy clothes that you know you'll wear for at least one year - if not more. And then, if they're still in good condition, donate them to charity. That way you're helping not just the planet, but the people who populate it too.

Consider walking, or using public transport. Isn't it funny how the people who talk the biggest when it comes to the environment are the ones who pollute it - through their massive cars, their constant flights, and their multi-car households - the most? If you genuinely want to help the environment, get on board with commuting to work with colleagues, or taking a train, a bus or a rick to work instead of using your own car. And to all those who claim that ricks pollute the environment, they're on the road whether or not you take your car. But if you drive your car, that's one more vehicle on the road. If you take the rick, that's one less. And the planet will only be helped if there's one less vehicle.

Throw it back to the 90's. Reusing stuff is actually a great thing for the environment  Whether or not the item in question is sustainable, reusing it automatically makes it better. It's far better to reuse a plastic bag, than to get a fresh paper bag from the grocery store every time you shop. Paper may disintegrate easier, but you still have to cut down trees to make it. Refilling old pens is better than buying new ones. Turning old curtains or duvets into cushion covers or rugs makes more sense than buying new.

The real truth about environmentalism, is that in order to save the planet, you simply need to buy less. Unfortunately, this does not sit very well with businesses, governments or advertisers. Therefore whenever topics like the environment or sustainability crop up, they like to convince us that what we really need to do is just to buy this alternative product that they're suggesting, and we can save the planet.
But consumerism is what causes this problem in the first place. Our need to buy, buy, buy in order to keep up with those Joneses. So take a break from shopping - unless you genuinely need something - and you'll be on the path to sustainability in one easy move.

That's something that I've been toying with this season. As I realised, when I talked about my jumper collection, I already have plenty. They're all in style. So I'm going to try not to shop (Christmas gift shopping aside) for any new clothes from November to March. I'll keep you updated as to how that one goes.

Till next time,

MumbaiGirl.